3D Printables
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- - Parameters needed for the case: -
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- You might have to play around with tolerances, they have to be tuned to each filament and 3D-printer combination.
- Tuning top_cover_lip_tolerance might be all you need.
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- Thanks @traumweh@chaos.social and @kritzl@chaos.social for the awesome case! -
-- These are not necessarily the most up-to-date version but we maintain them here in case you have our link saved or found an old kit from us. -
- +The "original" cat ear model we used was borrowed from Printables. + Since then, some people started to develop an improved and parametrized version with OpenSCAD.
+See the CCCHH wiki for the latest information on signs, 3D models, etc.
A few people from Hamburg started to 3D-print and wear cat ear headbands at EH20 which lead to some "can I get one, too" reactions. diff --git a/rgb-ears-39c3.html b/rgb-ears-39c3.html deleted file mode 100755 index ca7be85..0000000 --- a/rgb-ears-39c3.html +++ /dev/null @@ -1,692 +0,0 @@ - - -
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- - This guide aims to explain in simple terms how to assemble the c3cat catear build kit. - If you did not get a hold of one of those kits, take a look at our BOM. -
- - - - -- The general project assembly looks like this where each of the components must be connected via soldering points. -
- --┌─────┐ ╭───╮ -│ ESP ├┄┄╼ ╾┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄│ │ -└─────┘ - ╱ ╲ ╱ ╲ ╱ ╲ - pluggable long catear - connector cable & leds --
In addition to one of our kits, you will need
-- We recommend to use WLED as a firmware on all our catears. - It offers a wide range of features for display and animation and can be controlled comfortably from your smartphone. -
-- One of the most important steps is to electircally connect the microcontroller to the LED strip. - We will start with the LED side. -
- - - - - - -- The other side of the long cable now needs to be connected to the pluggable connector. -
-- Now you need to solder the other (female) part of the pluggable connector to your microcontroller. -
-- Congratulations! You now have a freely customizable pair of RGB catears :3 -
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- Don't feel pressured to wear cat ears – you're perfectly fine without them.
- And remember: Trans rights are human rights.
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- Now solder the cable to the LED strip according to the inputs (we have chosen red=5V, black=GND and yellow/green=data). Then protect the soldered joint with the piece of shrink tubing that we put on the cable.
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- Well, I wanted something blinking and useable for dancing and it should react to the beat.
- So of course I built just that.
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- - I wore them for the first time at gpn22 and tested them during the party there. Worked well, looked great and quite some people asked me how to built them. So here are instructions on how to build your own. -
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- - I opted to use prefabricated modules instead of creating my own PCB to get faster results and lower the entry barrier for clones. Using a custom PCB would probably result in a smaller size. -
- -- I carry an ESP32 running the WLED MoonModules Project fork of WLED]. Connected to it is an I2S module. The sound input is used to run a FFT and beat detection on the ESP. Those are then used in light effects. As lights I use a ws2812 stripe glued to 3d printed cat ears. A cable is running from the ears behind my back under my shirt to the bum bag. All together is powered via an USB power bank. - -
- - Connect the Microphone to the ESP. - See here for the pinout. For my INMP441 I've used the following pins : -
-I2S SD: 3 -I2S WS: 2 -I2S SCK: 1 -I2S MCLK: N/A- -
- But you can pick any supported microphone and are quite flexible in choosing those pins. -
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- The ws2812 data pin from the stripe on the ears is connected to `GPIO 4`. See [here](https://mm.kno.wled.ge/basics/getting-started/#quick-start-guide) on general info on howto connect those LEDs. I've picked a 100 Ohm resistor and skipped the level shifter.
- My board has another ws2812 LED on `GPIO 21` connected. I use this one as status LED. It's visible evenfrom outside the case.
- For power I've connected an USB C socket. It's secured with a cable tie. I picked this option over using the port on the devboard because the traces do not like the \~3A peak current I'd like to draw. It's recommended to add some random amount of capacitors as well. Considering I plan to support a 15W LED strob mode as it's probably not a bad idea. WLED recommends 1000µF.
- I've used m2 screws to connect board and case. To protect against stress I'd recommend to secure all external cables and sockets to the case and not only to the PCB.
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- - Get 3d printed cat ears. You should be able to find them in most hackspaces and chaos events. Or print your own with this [model from c3cat](https://wiki.hamburg.ccc.de/club:c3cat:start). I'd recommend HIPS or ABS as printing material since the LEDs get hot enought to bend PLA. Don't worry if you only have PLA ones, you just might have to heat and bend them back sometimes. I painted them black to keep moisture out permanently and have a smooth surface. -
- -- You need a thin LED stripe for this build. I picked up a 4mm wide one from Aliexpress which came in a silicone tube. I'd recommend a high pixel density, like 200/m, for maximum blink. For the linked 3d model this results in the need for 31cm or 60 LEDs of 200 LEDs/m stripe. I'd recommend to power on the stripe, turn on 60 LEDs, mark them, turn the stripe off and then cut it to length. -
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- - At areas of high stress (narrow bends) I've reinforced the stripe with transparent string and glue. This keeps the stripe and ears from seperating. -
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- On the lower half the string was painted black so it's not as visible.
- Use shrink tubing to fix the cable to the ears. You can substitute it for tape, but you have to build some kind of stress relive if you want your ears to last. Solder the cable to the backside of the stripe.
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- WARNING: using the wrong polarity will result in a fried ESP. You should use a reverse secure connector unlike me. Ask me how I know...
- WARNING 2: I learned not all cables are skin-friendly. Random ones from Aliexpress especially might not be... maybe add a silicone tube or use less shitty cables.
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- See here how to flash the wled fork. The web installer didn't work for me so I went a different way: -
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- It's probably easier to flash via CLI directly but I only had a phone with me at that moment. Yes we are in a future where you can flash a microcontroller via your phones browser. I love it!
-Now you should be able to connect to the WLED AP via wifi and it's standard password (wled1234).
-Configure your GPIOs via the webinterface. To get nicer effects, configure segments for parts like the ears and sides separately. Setup presets for effects and colors.
-Most importantly: experiment! Find out what looks you like. Try out what effects to use to what kind of music. Script your own effects. The documentation of WLED is quite a good help with that.
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- Yes realy. \~3A at 5V is generates enough heat to soften PLA. My next version is made using [HIPS](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graft_polymer#High_impact_polystyrene). ABS would work as well. -
-- Use a different connector as I did -
- -- The USB C breakout I used doesn't support USB PD. Use a different module or USB A -> C cables. -
- -- If it gets too loud the microphone clips out even on minimal gain settings. Either use a line in or add sound isolation. A different microphone could help as well. Or ignore the problem, it still blinks good enough. -
- -- I took way too few pictures of the ears in action. I'd realy love to have more pictures of them and some other wearables I plan to build. Hopefully fixable on the next event. -
- -- Looking at a phone screen is annoying. I'd love a button to cycle presets. -
- -- WLED has the option to sync multiple devices via wifi... I've some plans. -
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