3D Printables
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+ The "original" cat ear model we used was borrowed from Printables. - Since then, some people started to develop an improved and parametrized version with OpenSCAD.
-See the CCCHH wiki for the latest information on signs, 3D models, etc.
+ + ++ These are not necessarily the most up-to-date version but we maintain them here in case you have our link saved or found an old kit from us. +
+A few people from Hamburg started to 3D-print and wear cat ear headbands at EH20 which lead to some "can I get one, too" reactions. diff --git a/rgb-ears-39c3.html b/rgb-ears-39c3.html new file mode 100755 index 0000000..75ca6c0 --- /dev/null +++ b/rgb-ears-39c3.html @@ -0,0 +1,684 @@ + + +
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+ This guide aims to explain in simple terms how to assemble the c3cat catear build kit.
+ To follow it, you need soldering equipment, a heatgun, a pair of striping pliers, catears as well as one of our build kits.
+ If you did not get a hold of one of those kits, take a look at our BOM.
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+ The general project assembly looks like this where each of the components must be connected via soldering points. +
+ ++┌─────┐ ╭───╮ +│ ESP ├┄┄╼ ╾┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄│ │ +└─────┘ + ╱ ╲ ╱ ╲ ╱ ╲ + pluggable long catear + connector cable & leds ++
+ We recommend to use WLED as a firmware on all our catears. + It offers a wide range of features for display and animation and can be controlled comfortably from your smartphone. +
++ One of the most important steps is to electircally connect the microcontroller to the LED strip. + We will start with the LED side. +
+ + + + + + ++ The other side of the long cable now needs to be connected to the pluggable connector. +
++ Now you need to solder the other (female) part of the pluggable connector to your microcontroller. +
++ Congratulations! You now have a freely customizable pair of RGB catears :3 +
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+ Don't feel pressured to wear cat ears – you're perfectly fine without them.
+ And remember: Trans rights are human rights.
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- Now solder the cable to the LED strip according to the inputs (we have chosen red=5V, black=GND and yellow/green=data). Then protect the soldered joint with the piece of shrink tubing that we put on the cable.
+ Now solder the cable to the LED strip according to the inputs (we have chosen red=5V, black=GND and yellow/green=data). Then protect the soldered joint with the piece of shrink tubing that we put on the cable.
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I wore them for the first time at gpn22 and tested them during the party there. Worked well, looked great and quite some people asked me how to built them. So here are instructions on how to build your own.
@@ -127,7 +129,7 @@ you can configure a AP-Password to secure your catears against those Eggdy Hacke- Connect the Microphone to the ESP. + Connect the Microphone to the ESP. See here for the pinout. For my INMP441 I've used the following pins :
I2S SD: 3 @@ -147,14 +149,14 @@ I2S MCLK: N/A
But you can pick any supported microphone and are quite flexible in choosing those pins.
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The ws2812 data pin from the stripe on the ears is connected to `GPIO 4`. See [here](https://mm.kno.wled.ge/basics/getting-started/#quick-start-guide) on general info on howto connect those LEDs. I've picked a 100 Ohm resistor and skipped the level shifter.
My board has another ws2812 LED on `GPIO 21` connected. I use this one as status LED. It's visible evenfrom outside the case.
For power I've connected an USB C socket. It's secured with a cable tie. I picked this option over using the port on the devboard because the traces do not like the \~3A peak current I'd like to draw. It's recommended to add some random amount of capacitors as well. Considering I plan to support a 15W LED strob mode as it's probably not a bad idea. WLED recommends 1000µF.
I've used m2 screws to connect board and case. To protect against stress I'd recommend to secure all external cables and sockets to the case and not only to the PCB.
@@ -167,7 +169,7 @@ I2S MCLK: N/A
You need a thin LED stripe for this build. I picked up a 4mm wide one from Aliexpress which came in a silicone tube. I'd recommend a high pixel density, like 200/m, for maximum blink. For the linked 3d model this results in the need for 31cm or 60 LEDs of 200 LEDs/m stripe. I'd recommend to power on the stripe, turn on 60 LEDs, mark them, turn the stripe off and then cut it to length.
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At areas of high stress (narrow bends) I've reinforced the stripe with transparent string and glue. This keeps the stripe and ears from seperating.
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Use a different connector as I did
- +The USB C breakout I used doesn't support USB PD. Use a different module or USB A -> C cables.
- +If it gets too loud the microphone clips out even on minimal gain settings. Either use a line in or add sound isolation. A different microphone could help as well. Or ignore the problem, it still blinks good enough.
- +I took way too few pictures of the ears in action. I'd realy love to have more pictures of them and some other wearables I plan to build. Hopefully fixable on the next event.
- +Looking at a phone screen is annoying. I'd love a button to cycle presets.
- +WLED has the option to sync multiple devices via wifi... I've some plans. -
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